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The answer to this is dependant on a number of factors; the ambient air temperature; heater being sized correctly; solar cover fitted; plumbing configuration etc. As an indication, at the start of the summer season (May) you should be able to obtain a water temperature of 24°C / 75°F allowing for approximately 4 days heat up time. This is providing that filtration is running 24hrs per day and an average ambient air temperature of 16°C / 61°F is achieved.
Yes. Any reduction in pool heat loss directly translates into savings. 82% of all losses are due to convection. Using a pool cover just at night will save about 40% of the annual heating cost. A thermal pool cover or solar blanket can significantly reduce pool-heating loss. The use of a solar or thermal blanket will also help extend your pool season.
The Heat Pump will actually operate down to an ambient air temperature of 0°C. but with minimal heat output. Therefore we recommend that the minimum operating temperature should be 5°C. Other conditions such as wind, shade and physical location will affect the shut-off temperature of the unit.
Unless the Heat Pump has a leak in the sealed refrigeration system, the factory charge of Freon should last for the life of the unit. Freon is very stable and should not degrade or breakdown even under severe operating conditions. If your unit needs Freon, then it has a leak, and adding Freon will not solve the problem. The leak must be located and repaired. Fortunately, Freon leaks are very uncommon and usually are due to transit damage.
Normally, the pool pump and Heat Pump are installed close together and within 25 feet of the pool. The longer the distance from the pool, the more heat loss from the piping. Since normally most of the piping is buried, the heat loss is minimal for runs of up to 50 feet (50 feet to and from the pump = 100 feet total) unless the ground is wet or the water table is high. A very rough estimate of heat loss per 100 foot is 2500 BTU/hr for every 10° F difference in temperature between the pool water and ground surrounding the pipe, which translates to about 3% to 5% increase in run time.
Many suppliers of swimming pool heat pumps are promoting the benefit of Titanium Heat Exchangers (coil in which the pool water passes).
The Titanium exchanger is specifically designed for the customers who want additional protection from Chlorine, Bromine and all other common pool chemicals. The Titanium heat exchanger has a life expectancy, which is much longer (up to three times) than the standard copper exchanger (15 years).
The chemicals in pool water, including chlorine, bromine acid, can be extremely corrosive. Especially when pools are shocked and very high levels of chlorine exist, if the owner let’s the pool chemistry gets out of balance or if chlorine tablets are put in the skimmer.
In the case of heat pumps, if a water heat exchanger gets a hole in it (usually due to corrosion) and pool water enters the sealed refrigeration system, the entire heat pump is ruined.
The Titanium Water Heat Pump virtually eliminates all the chemical corrosion. The Titanium exchanger is bulletproof to chlorine, bromine and all other common pool chemicals.
Without question, having a Titanium heat exchanger is beneficial due to the life expectancy but please bear in mind that a the standard exchanger still has a life expectancy of 15 years!
Swimming pool heat pumps don't have a simple efficiency number to work with. Coefficient of Performance (COP) measures their efficiency.
swimming pool heat pumps COP ranges from 5-6.62, which means that for every unit of electricity that you put in to run the compressor, you get 5-6.62units of heat out of the heat pump. Heat Pumps can radically improve the energy efficiency and environmental value of any heating system that is driven by primary energy resources such as fuel or power.
The following water quality must be maintained at all times to prevent premature corrosion. It is recommended that your water balance is checked and balanced by a pool professional. Your warranty does not cover for damaged caused by poor water chemistry and neglect.
pH: 7.2 -7.6
Total Alkalinity: 80 - 120ppm
Total hardness: Less thab 500ppm
Total Dissolved solids: 1500ppm or lower
Saline Water max: concentration 6%
Chlorine Free Cl: 5ppm Max. Continuous
Cyanuric level 50ppm Max.
Super chlorination Max: 30ppm for 24hrs
Bromine: 8ppm
Baquacil: 25-50ppm
Surface skimmers (above or inground)
Do not use slow dissolving chemical tablets such as chlorine in the skimmer basket(s). This can lead to high acidic/corrosive pool water affecting the heat exchanger and resulting in a replacement of the whole unit. Therefore, we recommend that diluted chemicals are fed directly to the pool water or use an automatic dosing device.
1. Switch off electric supply to heat pump.
2. Turn off circulation pump.
3. Drain water from heat pump by disconnecting pipe work to and from heat pump. Ensure Heat Pump is completely drained.
4. Flush through water circuit in heat pump using clean tap water i.e. a hose into inlet connection – run for 10 minutes minimum
5. Drain completely - fit plastic bags secured by elastic bands over water connections.
6. If desired, you can protect from the heater by covering with VENTILATED cover through the winter season. Do not use plastic sheet
as condensation can occur within unit.
If the pool has a ‘frost-thermostat’ installed to prevent the pool system from being drained in the winter months, it is recommended that a plumbing by-pass be installed to prevent unnecessary water flow through the heater unit.
1. Remove ventilated cover protection is fitted.
2. Re-connect all plumbing connections to heat pump, filtration etc.
3. Turn on circulation pump and check for leaks.
4. Use control panel to set functions 1-7.
5. Check daily to ensure pool water has the correct pH and the correct chemical balance is being maintained.
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